Our visit to Myanmar’s “Ghost City”

We had read about Nay Pyi Taw (NYT) the capital of Myanmar; how it was built in secret and declared the capital in 2005, how it is 4 times the size of London with a population of less than 1 million. We had heard about the empty hotels, museums and roads, and got mixed reviews from other travellers; so we decided we had to see it for ourselves.

We arrived in NPT at around 9pm, after driving on a motorway for hours through fields and not much else, suddenly large neon-lit roundabouts appeared, followed by massive hotels. The bus station was pretty empty but there were a few motortaxis hanging around, we showed them the name of our hotel and we were ushered into a cab which drove miles back the way we had come to the “hotel zone”.

The hotel looked practically asleep when the taxi driver beeped his horn and a tiny Burmese lady came out to take us to reception. There are no hostels in NPT, but 60+ hotels which, due to the lack of visitors, have extremely reasonable rates; you can get a 3 or 4 star hotel for $30 a night. The large foyer was silent, filled with carved wooden statues and chandeliers, we didn’t see another guest as we were shown to our room on the 3rd floor.

We decided some of our favourite querks from the hotel were the fact that the lifts had random days of the week on the carpet, and that there was a large window between the bathroom and the bedroom!

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Just us at brekkie

Breakfast was a large buffet affair, with 5 staff waiting attentively on the 5 guests eating. The manager came to recommend some things to do in town. We hired a motorbike for the day (this cost 25,000 kyat (~£12.50) which is very overpriced, but we guess that’s the hotel cashing in on the fact you are literally miles from anything).

We visited the Uppatasanti Pagoda, a beautiful gold plated dome on the horizon. It was silent walking round this huge monument with just a handful of other people, very different to the experience we’d had in Yangon walking around a replica pagoda a few weeks earlier. The pagoda is free but women cannot wear trousers, so there are women dutifully waiting at the entrance to lend you a longee (traditional wrap for men and women), in exchange for a donation. The pagoda was stunning, with white marble floors that stayed cold in 32 degree heat, and carvings told stories of Buddah’s life (with neon lighting, it wouldn’t be Myanmar without some neon lights!)

There are also albino elephants at the right hand side of the temple, but they are sadly kept chained in awful conditions so we didn’t stay to look at them as we really didn’t want to encourage this.

Following this we rode on the famous 20 lane highway, which is what it says on the tin, what’s bizzare is that you are sharing this monster motorway with 1 or 2 other vehicles. Rumour has it that it’s built so wide so that it can be utilised as a military runway at short notice.

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Motorway opens into 20 lanes in front of us

Next up we drove to the National Museum: an extremely grand building full of displays about the ASEAN alliance, traditional artifacts from Myanmar and a display showing fossils found in Myanmar of our primate ancestors from 40 million years ago. The museum was, again, empty; we felt like we were waking the guards up from their naps as we walked through the exhibits, and we were the only people who had signed into the foreign visitors book that day.

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For lunch we tried “Café Flight”, a disused plane that had been turned into a restaurant. In true NPT style, as we entered the plane and saw no one there, we turned around assuming it was closed, staff ran from the building and Ella asked “Open?” Which was met with lots of nods and smiles and they basically opened the cafe Just for us, a good iced coffee and lunch on our private jet!

Driving from one place to another in NPT took up a large part of the day, the city is more like multiple “zones” connected by clean, well kept highways. An accidental detour through the suburbs revealed NPT in a different light; as the sun went down people appeared, teenagers playing football, families eating street food, school buses drove past and night markets appeared. We returned to the Pagoda to see it lit up (featuring more neon lights) and there was quite a bit of rush hour traffic on the roads. Maybe Nay Pyi Taw is not so much of a soulless ghost town but a vastly spread mega city in the making…

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