Rajasthan part 2 

Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur & Udaipur

In Rajasthan we had a taxi driver called Balvinder who took us around, this was great because we weren’t restricted to the train routes and times. Balvinder was really nice but sometimes wouldn’t say anything for a few hours and would then shout some words at you until you got out to discover what he was talking about. One of these examples was on our drive to Bikaner, “RED TEMPLE” he said, “RED TEMPLE!”, we didn’t understand, “RED TEMPLE” we sighed “OK, OK we’ll go see” we got out, not too keen as we’d just woken up from a long heat-induced nap and we were starting to feel a little templed-out.

Anyway, we took off our shoes and wandered in, Ella noticed a large black rat scurry through a crowd of worshipers, Isaac pointed to a group of 10 rats in one corner and another 20 rats being fed seeds by some locals. “Ohhhh RAT TEMPLE” we had read about this temple which is overrun with 25000 rats but people still come from far and wide to worship at.

Ella’s opinion was that it was that the smell was revolting and Isaac was expecting more rats…

It was c.40 degrees every day in the desert so we went out mainly in the early morning or evening. In Bikaner we took and evening Tuk tuk tour through the winding old streets seeing the most beautiful hand carved wooden Havelis (hotels).

We went to see a master of miniature painting as well which is famous in the region, he did a miniature painting on Ella’s nail and we got one (on paper, not nail) to take home. 

The highlight of the next city, Jaisalmer, had to be our visit to out into the desert. Neither of us had been on a camel before and it was a scary ride 10ft in the air! In the evening there was dancing entertainment and dinner with some other groups of tourists. There was a lot of laughing, some local children even came and sang. After dark we opted to sleep out in the dunes under the stars, the moon was so bright you could see for miles and we woke up to sunrise over the Thar desert.

Top tip: podcasts or entertainment are needed for the long car/train journeys in Rajasthan… eye-spy is not that entertaining in the desert!

Jodhpur was another beautiful city based around a fort, every hotel and restaurant had great views from the rooftops. It was also a great place for shopping, Ella got a Sari, Isaac bought a shirt and we also got some Masala tea spice for our Chai.

Our final stop in Rajasthan was Udaipur which is the “lake city”. Here we went out on a boat around the lake and also took an Indian cooking class with a lady called Shashima. We could not recommend this enough it was so interesting to learn all about her life as well as how to cook the basics for all indian curries, breads, chutneys and teas. You leave with a cook book of recipes and a very full stomach as you get to eat everything that you made during the class. Following this we watched our last sunset in Rajasthan on a roof top cafe with some chai and headed for our night train which would take us the 800km to Mumbai and then onto Goa.

Love Ella & Isaac xxx

Rajasthan part 1

We spent 2 weeks in Rajasthan so we’ve split the tour of the state into 2 parts, part 1 is Agra, Jaipur and Pushkar.

We started off in Agra, home of probably the most famous Indian temple; the Taj Mahal. On arrival we visited a park that sits behind the Taj to see the “river side” as the sun went down a small crowd gathered to watch the ant-like people swarm in and out of the domes of the temple. The next morning it was our turn to be the ants, we woke up at 5.30am as we had be told that sunrise was the best time to see the Taj Mahal and it did not disappoint. There were less crowds, but still more than we expected, lots of short queues to get the Instagram-worthy shots!7589954208_IMG_1022

Next up was Jaipur, a half-day drive from Agra. We went to the Monkey temple, which is both a shrine to the Hindu Monkey God and overrun with real monkeys, we never got to the bottom of which came first! From here it was a short climb up a hill to the Sunshine temple which has an amazing panoramic view of Jaipur.

 

Top tip: keep small notes with you in the temples because if you are blessed you will need to give a “donation”, which are not optional and you will be advised if you don’t give enough! We were blessed about 5 times before realising you can politely decline before you’re out of pocket about 1000 rupees!

 

The next day in Jaipur we went into the old part which gives the pink city its nick name. The beautiful art deco buildings are a pale terracotta colour. We visited the Jantar Mantar where Ella could geek-out over the 18th century star constellation, astrology and time measuring apparatus (they have the largest sun dial in the world which could measure the time to a 6second accuracy, in the 1700s… pretty impressive!) We are trying to be positive tourists so we accepted the offer of a local guide in order to put money into the community, however this was a disaster as he failed to tell us anything, and wondered aimlessly around the grounds, so we gave him a small tip and carried on on our own.

 

No hurry, No worry!

The next place we moved to was Pushkar, this was the first city we had been to where there were a noticeable number of non-Indian tourists. Pushkar is a hippie paradise, people live by the phrase a tea stall holder said to us: “no hurry, no worry”. The town is tiny, we could walk from one side to the other in half an hour. There is a bazaar over 1km long full of stalls selling patchwork trousers and jewellery like that you’d find on a stall in Camden. The cafes mainly serve pizza and special lassi but we managed to find an incredible curry house (Raju, Main Bazaar) which may*** be the best curry we’ve had in India.

***The jury’s still out, we don’t want to commit!

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There is a holy lake in the centre of Pushkar which legend claims was a petal of a lotus flower placed down by a god in the middle of the desert. People from all faiths make the pilgrimage to bathe in it. For such a small town there are a lot of temples (500 or so), we visited during a festival where the statues of the gods from each temple were taken from their home and down to bathe in the holy lake, this was partnered with a lot of singing, dancing and music through the tiny streets. There are also temples on the hills surrounding the town; we opted to walked up to Savitri Mata temple (we love a steep hike apparently!) but there’s a cable cart going up and down the hill if you wish. The views are breathtaking from the top. You can see why the lotus flower legend was born as there is nothing but desert for miles around this tiny lake.

 

Love Isaac & Ella xxx